I
woke up one morning in The Garden of Eden. My mother was fixing me some
breakfast, she said, “Go outside, and play while I unpack.” It was a hot day,
10:30, and already 80° in San Jose. Bulldozers had scrapped the earth around
our new tract house. Right out the back door, there was a thirty-foot DMZ, then
the neglected orchards. They were doomed to go in the next wave of building. Just
at the edge of the plum orchard and directly behind our house was a broadly
sweeping tree with huge leaves that looked exotic, just as I imagined palm
fronds. The tree was laden with dark purple, almost black, pear shaped fruit.
We had just arrived in the Valley of Hearts Delight after
a cross-country, permanent move by my parents to find their fortune in
California. I knew no one out here. My fellow fourth grade friends in Detroit
were in another world, impossibly far away. Jim, Dick, and I had run in a pack
and continually got in trouble together. I was their leader. The two neighbor
girls, Beverly and Frances, down the street in Detroit had just turned ten and
eleven that spring. They had been teaching me how to play Doctor. We would do
this in the basement. One of the sisters would stay on lookout while the other
one and I would play "full checkup." We kept looking for whatever it
was our parents were scared we would find, but we never did find it. I felt
alone without my Detroit friends and no new ones until September, two months
away.
Back
in the house, my mother told me, “This is fruit. A fig and it is okay to eat if
you wash it.” At the fig tree, I pulled a big fat one off and wiped it on my
T-shirt. It was hot and when I bit in, it exploded in my mouth, almost with
effervescence, as if it had been fermenting.
Figs
from the store are nothing like the ones you pick from the tree on a hot summer
day. Dried, they are too chewy because there is more skin than pulp. Cold, they
are too fleshy and disgusting, like eating a piece of raw animal. However, big,
hot, and ripe, the fig fills you with rich sugary sweetness.
Like
any fourth grade boy in those days, I was curious and fearless, and thus I
began my summer of wanderings through the orchards of San Jose. All my life I
had lived in a busy city. Now, immersed in such solitude, I would roam from
sun-up to sundown and rarely see another living soul, except birds. The joy to
me was the fecundity of the land. Around the ugly scar of our rock and
cement-droppings back yard, I found wild tomato plants, sprouted from the seeds
of construction workers' lunches. They blossomed without tending and produced
the most beautiful fruit. The dusty heat of the Santa Clara Valley summer added
to the aroma and the taste.
The
smell of tomato plant when you crinkle a leaf or two still drives me wild with
memories. The taste of those small, hot tomatoes was rich and filling, in with
one bite and chewed with two more.
All
the fruit around me then was much smaller than the things you get in stores
today. Growers sell their plums and tomatoes by the pound weight. These days
they grow them to hold more water and then the growers profit 89¢ a pound from
free rain and irrigation water.
Beyond
the fig tree was the orchard of plums. Rotting, but sweet-smelling plums strewed
the ground below each tree, but there still was a limitless supply in the
trees. The sweet smell of these wasp-covered rotting plums was delicious. My
mouth watered and I had to learn the hard way, to control my daily intake of
ripe plums. They were tiny and you could pop the whole thing into your mouth.
Just
picture all the flavor of one of those giant plums you get today concentrated
into a piece of fruit a quarter the size, without irradiation, chemicals, or
poisons.
Since
they fit into the mouth whole, the trick was to bite across the broadest part
of the fruit. They were ovoid in shape like a partly flattened egg with a seam.
You bit on this seam and the plum would split in two. Then you could extract
the pit, still in your mouth and spit it out. If the plum were properly ripe,
the pit would separate easily.
I
was so in tune with the earth, as the weeks passed by, that periodically as I
ran into a large mound of freshly bulldozed dirt, I stripped and buried myself
in it up to my armpits, just to feel the earth in touch with my body.
To
balance the sugary aspect of this daily diet of tomatoes, figs and plums, there
were walnuts and almonds. I learned that summer how to harvest a walnut. The
skin was thick and light green if I pulled one off the tree. The juice in the
skin was so strong that it stained my hands and took days to work off. If the
green skin sealed the nutshell, I could not get it off; the shell and nut were one. I had to wait for the skin to dry
out and start to fall off. Once the shell was on the ground with no skin, I could
not tell how old the walnut was. So best was to spot a withered or cracked skin
that was easy to flick away. Then I broke open the shell by placing the walnut
between the bases of my two palms, as if I was praying. I kept the seam between
the two halves of the walnut shell in contact with my palms. I interlocked my
fingers for more leverage, and then squeezed and the walnut shell split in two.
Too green and the walnut meat was chewy and bitter. If it was
too old, it was like a black peanut. Just right was tasty and full of protein.
The Valley is now made of Silicon, not fruit trees. I prospered from this transition. But I regret that these moments are lost to history.
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